(*Werbung/advertisement as I was invited by Lana Tourism)
A year wouldn’t feel complete without my annual trip to Lana in the Adige Valley. Autumn wrapped us in South Tyrolean traditions and days spent outdoors, so let me take you with me as we explore those traditions, activities, and of course take a look at where to eat and where to stay.
TörggelenTörggelen is a deeply ingrained Autumn ritual in Lana: you get together with friends and family, enjoy hearty farmhouse food, drink some vino, and just enjoy this time of the year.
A little language lesson: The word „Törggelen“ comes from the word „Torggl“ – a traditional wooden wine press found in old cellars, where people used to gather to taste the new wine, a rather sweet wine from the latest harvest that is still fermenting and is also known as „Suser“ in the region.
A lot of the restaurants offer special Törggelen menus where you can get a taste of the traditional South Tyrolean dishes that have been served there for thousands of years. From Knödel and Schlutzkrapfen to Keschtn. Because there’s no Törggelen without Keschtn: chestnuts!
KeschtnChestnuts have long been roasted over open flames in South Tyrol. With their smoky aroma and warm, nutty bite they are a classic part of autumn gatherings. It’s rather exciting to watch the process: the way the chestnuts are flipped with precision and skill. It’s a wee bit like watching someone flip a pancake, but with a side of a crackling fire, flames and sparks. Once the shell is sufficiently roasted, a Keschtnriggl, a hand-carved wooden tool, is then used to gently crack the shells and reveal the soft chestnuts inside.
VinoViticulture in Lana has deep roots: sunny slopes, mild Alpine-Mediterranean breezes and rich, varied soils create ideal conditions for winegrowing. There are a few vineyards in Lana that offer tours so you can learn everything you’ve always wanted to know about the growing and harvest of grapes, the making of wine and how it’s stored.
Autumn is the perfect time of the year to enjoy a vineyard tour and taste some Lagrein or Gewürztraminer. And in the spirit of Törggelen, it’s best to do it all with friends!
We went to Zollweghof above Lana, but Hännsl am Ort or Kränzelhof offer informative (and tasty) tours as well.
To me, Autumn is a great season for all outdoor activities – especially in Lana, because although it’s surrounded by mountains, the climate is usually still quite balmy and the chance for sunny days is pretty high, too. While you can usually find me on top of mountains, let us focus on some more easygoing activities, that will still make sure that you breathe in as much fresh air as possible:
Shinrin-YokuShinrin-Yoku has its origins in Japan and is also known as „forest bathing“. We met up with Berta of happy bee in Tisens, not really knowing what to expect. Together we walked a short way towards the edge of the forest where we followed an almost hidden path towards a moss-covered clearing. Here, Berta sat down with us and helped us immerse ourselves in the sights, sounds and scents of the forest. I lied down on the soft bed of the forest floor, my hands resting on the moss, tiny raindrops falling onto my face. The church bells chiming in Tisens soon felt distant and were replaced by birdsong. It felt as though we had completely stepped away from anything human-made and were safe and sound in natures embrace. A calming pause from our busy lives, leaving us with an even deeper love for our natural world.
Every Tuesday from 7:30–13:00 you can visit the Farmer’s Market in the center of Lana, where stalls offer fresh fruit & vegetables, but also bread, honey, syrups or vinegar. It’s small but full of character, and a great way to get a feel for local flavours. If you’re staying in a little apartment with a kitchen, make sure to swing by and stock up on all the fresh, seasonal goodies.
Ride a bikeLana sits in the flat Adige Valley, so riding a bike is pretty smooth. We pedaled South towards the apple groves, which are beautiful during Autumn, with ripe, colourful apples on every tree. From there, we could’ve continued to Bolzano, or head the other way to Merano – both gentle, climb-free routes. Tip: if you don’t have a bike it’s easy to rent one in Lana.
You can’t go to Lana and skip on all the beautiful trails. Two tracks that are suitable for all fitness levels are the two Waalwege in the area:
The Marlinger Waalweg is built along historic irrigation canals (Waale), which are still used to water the orchards and vineyards, that you’ll pass on your hike. The 12 km hike is an easy one, with gentle terrain and a lot of shady stretches, rewarding you with breathtaking views over Lana and the Adige Valley.
The Brandis‑Waalweg is an easy 3 km-stroll above Lana, winding through orchards, vineyards and chestnut groves. There is so much to see along the way, like the chapel of St. Margareth, or the Brandis waterfall. And you definitely want to stop at the tiny farm shop to treat yourself to an apple or a cup of fresh apple juice.
If you wanted to give your legs and lungs a bit more to do, go and tackle the Aichbergweg. The roughly 4.5 km hike is a bit more challenging with some steeper stretches in between. But along the way, info boards invite you to pause and learn about the local history, geology, flora, fauna, and fruit & wine growing. So it’s a true hike-and-learn experience!
You might’ve been following my Lana journey for a while now so you will know that food always comes up in my blog entries. If you’re new here: Lana is a mecca for your tastebuds and every year there’s a new dish I won’t stop talking about until the next time I’m visiting. But I guess you don’t want to hear me ramble on about a dessert for six paragraphs so instead here are some restaurant recommendations, so you can find your own food experience to rave about:
At 1,500 m above sea level, atop Mt Vigiljoch, you can find hotel vigilius with its restaurants „Stube Ida“ and the aptly named „Restaurant 1500“. Here, Daniel and his team go the extra mile to serve perfectly thought-out meals.
Restaurant 1500 serves beautifully crafted dishes that are as creative as they are delicious, with a strong focus on local & seasonal ingredients, which is all part of the vigilius’ commitment to sustainability and quality.
The charm of Stube Ida comes alive around its century‑old ceramic stove, filling the space with warmth and nostalgia. The food here is rustic & hearty, and exactly what you crave after exploring Mt Vigiljoch.
Haidenhof is perched above the Adige Valley with gorgeous views towards Lana and Merano. Their Autumn menu is as cosy as it gets: you shouldn’t miss out on their Knödel or Schlutzkrapfen. And if you crave more chestnuts, the team have got you covered as well!
TerzRestaurant Terz, in the heart of Tscherms, had some fame coming its way after appearing on a German cooking show. And rightly so. Chef Andreas and his team combine traditional, local dishes with flavours and delicacies from all over the globe and the result is a real treat for your tastebuds. I got to watch the team in the kitchen for a while and I’m still fascinated by the care, finesse, and attention to detail that goes into every single dish.
WiesenhofAfter a day of exploring, nothing quite beats the feeling of coming back home. And that is exactly what boutique hotel Wiesenhof was: a home away from home. Lujo was very welcome here as well and loved a bit of peace and quiet in our little apartment or just lounging in the lush gardens (as did we).
Breakfast was a celebration! Philipp and I were speechless on our first morning – each day started with a different smoothie, followed by dishes that could easily belong in a fine-dining restaurant. Every plate was crafted with so much love & attention to detail, and you could taste it! How will I ever go back to plain old oatmeal??
Doris runs the hotel with so much warmth and commitment, it was felt throughout our whole time there. The adults-only hotel itself is small: with just 6 suites it feels intimate and peaceful, making every stay feel personal and relaxed.
Im TiefenbrunnNestled among apple orchards and vineyards just outside Lana, hotel Im Tiefenbrunn is a peaceful, family-run hideaway. From the moment we arrived, the warm, inviting atmosphere made it easy to slow down and settle in.
The hotels focus is on yoga and wellness. There is a sauna, nature pool, meditation room, and scattered around the garden you can find wooden platforms to practice your cobras and downward dogs.
Modern comfort meets South Tyrolean charm: what I loved about the design of the hotel, was the combination of old and new elements – especially all the old paintings in golden frames and the wooden elements, which lend so much warmth to the rooms.
I loved taking you with me on another trip to Lana, even if it was just through a screen. But I hope it can provide a bit of inspiration for your next getaway to South Tyrol. Maybe I’ll see you there next year?
